Green Iguanas have always been a popular pet on Long Island. I've noticed that they are most popular with young adults, whom enjoy having a pet off the mainstream. I also attribute their popularity to the reptile museum, located in Hicksville.
The most common condition seen in green iguanas is metabolic bone disease (MBD). The signs of this disease include softening of the bones, most obviously, the jaw bone (mandible). Other signs include, firm swelling of the rear leg bones, thinning of the hips and tail. The iguana is usually lethargic, reluctant to move, and unable to eat. Sometimes, the mouth can become infected due to the loss of body condition and lack of nutrition.
Owners who have never owned an iguana before usually get this problem with MBD. They feed their iguanas one type of food, be it meat, or different (usually low calcium) veggies, but not both. No cereals, no fruit, and no vitamin/mineral supplements are provided, either. MBD occurs due to this dietary imbalance. There is a long term lack of dietary calcium, improper calcium:phosphorus ratio, lack of vitamin D, lack of ultraviolet light (or even sunlight), or protein deficiency. Besides dietary imbalances, MBD can also be due to diseases of the kidneys, liver, small intestine, thyroid gland, or parathyroid gland. However, the diagnosis is supported by the dietary history.
Before you attempt to treat the iguana yourself, get the pet evaluated with an x-ray, and see if there are any leg or vertebral fractures. The mouth should be checked to see if there is any infection/swelling and if the iguana is able to eat. It won't do the iguana any good if it can eat the new diet. So, get the beast checked out.
If the veterinarian makes this diagnosis, he will offer calium and vitamin D parentally, which should be regimented with the seriousness of the disease. If the iguana is unable to eat, there are special gruel diets that can be prepared, or purchased. One can try a concoction of 1 part dry dog food, 1 part rabbit pellits (combined in a blender to make a powder), and then add to 6 parts non-citrus gatorade. This can be given via syringe (1/2 tsp per 100 gms of iguana) every day. Prepared diets are also available include Emeraid 2 (Lafeber), or A/D (Hills). However, these are not balanced diets, and should be used until the iguana could eat by itself.
Also, you could soak the iguana in shallow, luke-warm water for 10-20 minutes every day to encourage drinking and defecation. Fill the water so it goes halfway up the back. Watch the iguana while its in the water to prevent drowning.
Calcium rich veggies: 30-40% of the diet (use two or more items
per feeding)
Turnip greens, mustard greens, beet greens, kale, collards, bok choy,
Swiss chard, dandelions, parsley, romaine, escarole, spinach, alfalfa
pellets
Other veggies: 30-40% of the diet, a variety weekly
Frozen mixed veggies (served at room temp), squash, zucchini, sweet
potato, bell pepper, broccoli, peas, beans, okra, grated carrot,
sprouts
Grain/Fiber: optional up to 20% - Whole grain breads and natural bran cereals
Fruits: no more than 15% of the diet
Figs, papaya, melon, apple, peaches, plums, strawberries, tomatoes,
banana (with skin), grapes, and kiwi
Animal Protein sources: 5% of adult diet, 10% of juvenile
Insects: crickets, mealworms, king mealworms
Meats: cooked chicken, small prekilled mice
Commercial Pet Diets: soaked premium low-fat foods, primate diets,
and trout chow.
Vitamin/Mineral Suppliementation
Good idea, but watch oversupplementation. check label.